Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts

May 15, 2010

Lifehacker has impeccable timing

Lifehacker is one of my favorite websites.  Not because of the great writers, but because of their timing.  Everytime I need something, Lifehacker finds out and posts something useful.  I swear they are spying on me.  First it was a detailed Thunderbird tweak guide, then Dropbox hacks, both published within days of my installs of both.  The list goes on.

The newest example is a post today about GameSave Manager, a tool that backs up saved game files for over 400+ games. It was not a month ago that I gave up playing Bioshock after losing my save files during a reformat of Windows 7.  This was after already restarting the game one time because of poor planning.  Oh, and I was making backups the old fashioned way, but the one day the backup failed is the day I decided to reformat!

Also, recently I lost several hours of progress in my save game for Mass Effect.  After that incident, I implemented my backup scheme for saved games by syncing the folders to Dropbox.  That way I have saved files on all the computers I connect to Dropbox with.  It works wonders for Civilization 4 games since I am usually manually saving them. 

However, it is annoying to have to add other games by hand to my backup scheme.  Even more so when it takes five minutes on Bing to find out where the actual saved game is stored in Windows 7.  GameSave Manager takes care of all the prep work and then makes it easy to restore from the backups it makes.


Lifehacker, again, saves the day.  <3

March 5, 2010

Speed up Battlefield: Bad Company 2's Server Browser

EA has posted some tips for speeding up Battlefield: Bad Company 2's (BFBC2) server browser.
To help speed up your server browsing these tips can help you get results quicker.
  • Use Favourites/History when possible
If you use the server browser then

Use the server browser
When it starts to search click CANCEL

Select the options:
  • Ranked
  • Not Full
  • Not Empty
  • No Password
  • Leave Punkbuster checked
  • Hit Refresh
You can use your friends list in game to connect on them without accessing the server browser.
Hope this helps!

March 3, 2010

How To Fix Punkbuster kicks for Battlefield: Bad Company 2 (BFBC2) on Steam

Battlefield: Bad Company 2 Limited EditionIf you are playing Battlefield Bad Company 2 on PC through Steam, you may be getting kicked by Punkbuster after a few seconds anytime you join an online game. This is most likely due to a conflict with Punkbuster and the BFBC2 Beta installation on your PC.

To fix this:

1. Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common
2. Delete the Battlefield Bad Company 2 Beta folder, which includes Punkbuster
3. Go to Punkbuster's website and get www.punkbuster.com/index.php?page=pbsetup.php
4. Launch the program
5. Once launched, click add game
6. Select BFBC2
7. Browse to C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\battlefield
8. Click OK and then click Check for Updates.

Punkbuster will now initiate a download for the BC2 Punkbuster client.

UPDATE: You may also need to remove the BFBC2 Beta folder from "My Documents" as well before this will work properly.

NOTE: Do not let Punkbuster run in it's default destination. It is set up to go to the BFBC2 Beta folder instead of the correct BFBC2 release version folder.



I will try to keep this updated as we get more info.

February 17, 2010

Tips & Tricks: How Not to be a Noob at Battlefield Bad Company 2 (Video)

Best. Battlefield: Bad Company 2. Video. So. Far.

February 16, 2010

Allods Online Characters and Upcoming Guide

I wanted to post about my two characters from Allods Online, which just launched open beta (patch 1.0.05.41) today.

Server: Tensess
Faction: League

Heartless the Priest
























Favre the Ranger
























Also, I am begining work on an Allods Online Guide blog.

January 27, 2010

LCD vs Plasma: HDTV buying guide and other stuff I learned in the process of buying my first HDTV

What HDTV should I buy?  Its a question heard around the Internet every two seconds.  Quickly followed by LCD or Plasma?  Followed by more questions: screen size, refresh rate, resolution, etc.  Normally, a quick search on Google or Bing will quiet my concerns about any tech purchase.  In the case of buying an HDTV, Google was worthless, sending me repeatedly to adver-spam sites that do nothing more than duplicate Amazon.com's review listings.  Bing proved a little bit more fruitful, directing me to the helpful CNET Reviews.
Samsung PN50B550 50-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV
What I learned was that I could not rely on a review or single source to direct me to the HDTV that was right for me.  The only way I was going to get a quality television was if I made the effort to research the options and understand from top to bottom everything there was to know before I walked into a store (and know that once I left that store, I was going home to order my HDTV online to save money).

Plasma vs LCD

The first step in any HDTV journey is to make a decision: Plasma or LCD.  I falsely assumed that LCD being the newest and most prominent HDTV technology on the market was the path I was destined to follow.  It was fairly late in the game when I discovered that the older technology of Plasma was more than capable of standing up to LCDs.  In hind sight, I should have started looking at Plasmas from day one, right alongside the newest LCDs.

Plasma

Plasma's get a bad reputation from their early years and the fact they are slowly being phased off the market.   Big name Plasma makers such as Pioneer have already left the market, and others are following.  Any initial search for a list of top 10 HDTVs is unlikely to feature more than a single Plasma.

The main benefit, that I found, for Plasma HDTVs was the price.  The manufacturing process for making Plasma televisions is streamlined, reducing the price.  Comparable sized Plasmas are often hundreds less than equivalent LCDs and with better specs.

Secondly, Plasmas offer a better picture quality out of the box, with deeper blacks and better control over motion blur.  Unlike LCDs, Plasmas do not need to advertise 120hz or 240hz refresh rates, as they handle screen refresh without the need for gimmicky processing tricks.

Also, the off-angle viewing for Plasma TVs is better, so those looking at the TV from one side will see the same vibrant picture as those in front of it.  LCDs are best viewed from the front with noticeable degradation of the colors and sharpness as the viewer moves off-center.

The major downside of Plasmas is power consumption, upwards of two to three times greater than that of LCDs.  However, most new Plasmas are Energy Star rated, which greatly quiets my fear of an energy vampire. Otherwise, many of the downsides attributed to Plasmas are things of the past.

Newer Plasmas have the same life expectancy of tube LCDs (60,000 - 100,000 hours, or about 27 years of average use).  There is plenty of technology built-in to prevent screen burn in (where an image seems permanently stuck on screen, such as a stations logo) and combat image retention (images staying on screen during periods of transition, such as when changing channels).

The only true detractor that sticks to Plasmas is that they don't do well in a bright room due to the fact they require a shinier glass surface which can pick up annoying reflections.  For my situation, our great room is big and dim, so a Plasma was a good fit.

NOTE: Plasmas only come in 42" + screen sizes.  For HDTVs below 42", LCD is the only choice.
NOTE: Plasmas do not do well at higher elevations and should be avoided in those areas.

LCD

While it may be obvious from my Plasma section that I became a fan of Plasma over LCD, but it would be a disservice not to talk about LCDs in this post.  LCDs are the prevalent technology on the market. They are far more energy efficient and tackle some of Plasma's greatest skeletons: no threat of burn in or burn out, matte finish to reduce glare, smaller screen sizes available, and no issues at higher elevations.

With newer technologies, such as LED back/edge-lighting and 120-240hz refresh rates, LCDs achieve equal picture quality to Plasmas.  However, LCDs are just now catching up in these categories and there is no set standard and plenty of debate over the benefits of each new feature being added to LCDs.  This leads me into one of LCDs biggest issues: price.

This is not to say all LCDs are over-priced, but the good LCDs that offer comparable specs to a good Plasma are always more expensive.  Not to mention as new features are added (120hz, 240hz, LED, dejudder, etc.) the price keeps going up.  To accomplish the same things that a Plasma does out of the box, expect to be paying more for an LCD.  Plus, more time will be spent researching each of these new features and the affect on viewing.

Why I chose Plasma

At the end of the day, I went with Plasma.  The ultimate test for me was walking into several large retailers (Best Buy, Jeff Lynch, etc) and looking at TVs.  Online research can only accomplish so much and at some point, the TVs need to be seen in person to understand the differences.

The first thing I noticed when walking into Jeff Lynch were the three screens on the far wall.  The picture looked crisper and more vivid than the rest. Sure enough, they were all Plasma screens (and only displaying 720p content).  All of them were hundreds less than the other TVs.  In comparison, there were well over 50 LCD models on display.  Not a single LCD on the floor looked great until I was standing right in front of it.  The lonely three Plasmas looked good from everywhere.  Granted, once in front of the LCDs, most were great and in the theater room at Jeff Lynch with the 65" Sony Bravia LED-LCD, the picture was amazing, but I would hope so at the $4,000+ price tag!

The off-angle viewing was a huge factor in my decision as our great room features 3/4 of the seating off to the side.  Plasmas won this fight hands down and with the price being about $500 less than an equal LCD, I was sold.  Anyways, I am NEVER directly in front of our TV, the dog is!  And I'm not buying this TV for the dog!

Details, Details

While LCD vs Plasma is a tough decision, there are plenty of other things to confuse an HDTV buyer: resolution, brand name, model number, screen size, etc.  LCDs in particular require due diligence on their growing set of options.  What I'm about to break down is what I found to be the important factors: 1080p, screen size, and brand name with a touch of model number.

1080p


1080p is the defacto HD resolution these days and while most cable/satellite is sent in only 720p, I found no reason not to go with 1080p.  The price difference, while there, was not enough to convince me to skip out.  Also, I would have had to search pretty far and wide to find a newer 720p set.  Every newer TV was 1080p.

Screen Size

Bigger is better right?  Yes, but size matters based on viewing distance.  I found a handy chart that makes quick work of this:


At ~9ft from my couch to the wall, a 50" fell right in the sweet spot.  Too far away with a screen under 50" and I would lose detail and diminish the bonus of having an HD screen.

Brand Name with a Touch of Model Number


There are a lot of HDTV manufactyrers out there and a million models from each (or it seems).  I strongly recommend sticking with a trusted name for a large purchase such as this: Sony and Samsung being the two top names I saw repeatedly.  Often times enthusiasts will refer to the brand names in tiers.

Tier 1 consists of the big names: Sony, Samsung, etc.
Tier 2 consists of the lesser knowns: Vizio, etc.
Tier 3 consists of the budget and store brands: Sceptre, Infinity, etc.

While tier 3 TVs may offer dirt cheap prices, they are plagued with lesser quality parts and shorter life spans.  Another factor is the repair network for each.  The bigger brand names are going to have nationwide (read: United States) repair networks and in-home service, while the tier 3 suppliers are going to have limited repair networks that will most likely require shipping a TV somewhere for repairs.

Just to throw a wrench into my smooth sailing, the HDTV manufacturers toss around all kinds of model numbers.  For example there is the similarly named Samsung PN50B550, PN50B450, and PN50B650.  All only one number off, but the differences and prices between each are huge.  The 550 and 650 offer 1080P, while the 650 trumps the 550 with Internet connectivity.  The 450 really shouldn't be included because it features only 720p and is only a budget line.

My advice is to look at the model numbers and determine what differs between each.  Often times, the higher end models will have an extra bell or whistle (such as Internet on the TV).  Without a little research the buyer would never know there is a technically equal TV, minus the bell or whistle, for a few hundred dollars less.  It pays to figure out what the "vanilla" sets are in each line (the 550 being the vanilla 1080p-level set in the example above).


Buying Online vs in-store

Just a quick note on buying online vs in-store.  In both situations, it is unlikely the store selling the TV will accept returns on damaged/non-working TVs.  They will usually require the manufacturer to be contacted for repairs.  Online or off, most places will accept returns on working, but un-wanted TVs.

Most local stores will not have many HDTVs in stock at the store, requiring payment for home delivery from a warehouse.  Also, local stores have to charge sales tax.  Online purchases usually don't have sales tax and shipping is often free.  I found very (and I mean very) little reason to buy locally.  I saved over $200 buying my TV online.  If there isn't a super deal locally, head online (I like to use Bing Shopping to compare prices and nab Bing cashback when possible).

What I bought

Lets get to what I bought: Samsung's PN50B550.  From the details: 
The PN50B550 plasma HDTV is perfect for action-packed sports and movies. It uses new e-panel technology which reduces blurring and produces crisp, clear images. And 1080p high definition brings out the brilliance and clarity in everything you see. Plus its unique Touch of Color design turns it into a beautiful work of art. Enjoy a more realistic, thrilling movie night at home with this Samsung plasma HDTV.
It arrives Feb 2nd, so check back to see if my research lives up to the hype.

January 10, 2010

Borderlands Configuration Editor

I found the Borderlands Configuration Editor, which is a great tool that easily allows PC players to do everything from disabling the opening movies to adjusting the field of view (FOV). 

One of the "TO DO" additions to the tool is a "Check my ports" feature, which is dearly needed for the port forwarding mess that is multiplayer on the PC version of Borderlands.  So, if you have a moment drop into the forum and place a vote to get this feature added ASAP!

December 26, 2009

After-Christmas Sales For Gamers

Update: 14 Jan, 2010 - Removed post and links as the sales are over.

December 23, 2009

TIP: How to move Steam games to another drive in Windows 7/Vista/XP

With the Steam holiday sale blitzing everyone's wallets, there are plenty of people trying to find hard drive space to store all of their new games (seriously, S.T.A.L.K.E.R. for only $1.99, Mirror's Edge for $4.99).

One of the quirks with Steam is that it only allows users to install games to the same drive that Steam resides on.  For many, that is their main C: drive, which often fills up quickly.  I will detail the process used to move 3rd party games to another drive.  This will be for Windows 7 and Vista (Windows XP users click here).


NOTE: Click here for details on moving Valve's games (Team Fortress 2, Half Life 2, etc.).
NOTE: Both drives must be formatted with the NTFS file system.
NOTE: This moves the actual game files, not saved files that may be in different folders.

Steps

Step 1:

Create a folder named Steam2 on your additional storage drive (remember, the drive must be formatted NTFS).  Putting the folder in the root of the drive will make it easier to run the commands later.  Example:  D:\Steam2

Step 2:

Locate your Steam install folder.

Examples:
Windows 7/Vista 64-bit - C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\
Windows 7/Vista 32-bit - C:\Program Files\Steam\

Step 3:

Next, locate \steamapps\common\ in your Steam install folder.  This is where 3rd party game installs are neatly kept in their own folders.

Step 4:

Select the game folders you wish to move and then select CUT.

Step 5:

Go to the Steam2 folder created in step 1 and click PASTE.  This will move the folders and files for each game over to your spare storage and remove them from the original drive.  The next step will link these moved folders back to their old locations so that Steam can find and use them.

Step 6:

Open a command prompt.

With the prompt open, use the mklink /J command for each game that you moved.  The mklink command creates a link to the moved folder.  The syntax is as follows:

mklink /J link target

mklink = the 'make link' command
/J = the junction prefix, which creates the link between folders
link =  the file path to the folder that needs to be linked to
target = the file path to the folder that has the data in it


Example using BioShock on Windows 7 64-bit:

mklink /J "C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\bioshock" "F:\Steam2\bioshock"

*It is important to note the quotations used around the file paths, as the command line does not like spaces or special characters

When this completes correctly, you should see:

Junction created for C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\bioshock <<===>> F:\Steam2\bioshock


Any questions?  Comment below or send an email to heartlessgamer _at_ gmail _dot_ com.

July 26, 2009

The Future, Now! Firefox 3.7 Theme

Firefox 3.5 just launched, but the Mozilla folks are hard at work showing off 3.7. I love the Firefox web browser and get a little giddy anytime there are future updates in the works. Thanks to Boneyardbrew, we have a mock-up of FIrefox 3.7 available for download. However, there are some extra steps involved:
Installing this theme isn't quite as simple as you are probably used to—you'll need to first enable the All-Glass Firefox extension for the Aero effects, the Personal Menu extension to hide the menubar and add the Tools button, the Stylish extension for a tweak that fixes the text, and then drag the mockup theme's *.jar file into the add-ons window to install it.

Once you've successfully completed all of the steps—which are detailed on the download page—you should have an impressive browser style that looks very similar to the screenshot.
Personally, I just downloaded the theme from Boneyardbrew's page and it looks fine to me, minus the tweaks that the other add-ons provide.

Enjoy.

July 1, 2009

Snap Links for Firefox 3.5

Snap Links is one of my favorite Firefox add ons. With a single click and drag, multiple links can be clicked at once. With Firefox 3.5 rolling out, it was time to find a new version of Snap Links.

After digging high and low, I finally found a compatible version in Snap Links Plus.

Enjoy!

Update: 3 Aug 2009 - This works with Firefox 3.5.1.
Update: 31 Oct 2009 - This works with Firefox 3.5.4.
Update: 11 Nov 2009 - This works with Firefox 3.5.5.
Update: 20 Dec 2009 - This works with Firefox 3.5.6.

March 29, 2009

How To Install Google Calendar Sync on XP 64

Since I'm knee deep in a project between my company and Google, I've started using Google Calendar Sync at work to sync my Outlook Calendar to my Google Calendar. It's turned out to be a neat little tool and I've been meaning to install at home. However, I use Windows XP Pro 64-bit edition at home and Google Calendar Sync does not support it. Fortunately, with a simple little "hack", I've got it up and running just fine.

Get the Google Calendar Sync installer.

1. Right-click on the installer file and select Properties.
2. Next, select the Compatibility tab.
3. Turn on "Run this program in compatibility mode for:" and select
Windows XP from the drop down box.
4. Click OK.
5. This will run GoogleCalendarSync_Installer.exe in compatibility mode for XP 32-bit, allowing the program to run on an XP 64 system. There are no issues that I have found running it this way.

Now, this trick works surprisingly well for a lot of software that does not support XP 64. Give it a try and let me know if there are any questions.

February 15, 2009

Left 4 Dead: Fixing Black Textures/Missing Textures/Video Problems

Recently, Left 4 Dead has gone dark on me. In my search for solutions, I stumbled across the following for nVidia card owners:
If you are using Riva Tuner, please follow these directions:

1. Launch Riva Tuner
2. Click the "Customize" button next to "ForceWare Detected".
3. Click the Direct3D/DirectDraw button
4. Set the "Surface Format Settings" to "for DirectX8- Applications"
5. Check the "Enable FOURCC DXT..DXT5 surfaces" box
6. Select "OK" and you will be prompted to restart your computer
For step-by-step with pictures and a guide for ATI video card owners, click here.

December 3, 2008

Left 4 Dead: Boomer Tips and Tricks

I have started playing Left 4 Dead, Valve's new slaughter-the-zombie-hordes co-op shooter. It is a terrifyingly fun game to blow a few minutes on, whether playing against or alongside other players. The more I play, the more I feel like I am not using the Infected (zombies) classes very well, so I went in search of some tips.

I found a very detailed thread on the Boomer class over on the official Steam forums. I have saved a copy below:

A Boomer Guide
The boomer is the centerpiece of any Infected team's offense, the skill of the boomer player can shape the outcome of many a versus match. Aside from tanks, witches, and the occasional horde... boomers are the only player-controlled means of generating an "opening" in the survivor's defenses. Normally (and I use this word lightly) a competent survivor team can quickly deal with the other 2 infected classes very quickly.

Why is he so important:
1) The blinding effect of your vomit makes it very difficult for blinded teammates to help each other out. Most of the time they have to resort to spamming their weapons at headshot level and spamming melee until the effect begins to wear off. The effect makes it almost impossible to save allied players at first unless they are very close to you.

2) The music that plays after a successful boomer attack on a players + screams of the charging infected also make it extremely difficult to hear what's going on around you and find out who needs help.

3) The obvious free infected swarm that comes with any successful attack.

4) The combination of the above 3 factors creates chaos and confusion among even the most coordinated survivors. The inability to see or hear teammates that well makes it quite a challenge to save them, and being surrounded by infected makes it very difficult to accurately shoot or run to their rescue.



So here are my tips for maximizing the usage of the boomer:
1) Don't attack until at least 2 of your teammates have spawned unless you think you can "get away" after vomitting on survivors (Not very likely)

2) Spawn IN FRONT of the survivors, or ABOVE them, spawning behind them is a dead giveaway for anyone with headphones and forces the boomer to follow them... boomers who spawn behind players are usually free kills unless there are very tight quarters... in which case why dont you just spawn in front of them anyway?

3) Tight corners and roofs are almost guaranteed "win" spots. 90% of teams will have no way to stop you if you camp the right corners, if they shoot you as they turn the corner they will be covered in vomit, if they run to melee you then you can vomit on them anyway... one more reason to spawn in front of them.

4) Don't risk your (boomer) life if the enemy is already fighting a horde. This may seem controversial but when a horde is coming the survivors are already hunkering down for the storm, they will be extra wary and even if you manage to blind them they are probably in a good defensive position where it wont matter. Furthermore adding a few infected to the horde doesn't really make much of a difference. On the other hand blinding + summoning infected after the survivors just finished a horde will wear their health and ammo thin and slow them down.

5) Boomers take fall damage, you can "suicide bomb" enemy players from tall roofs giving them very little warning.

6) Suicide > Vomit against better players. There is a slight delay before the vomit begins and your constant burping will give them plenty of warning, if given a chance to fall from a roof, charge around a corner while someone is firing, or simply run right into their midst and wait for someone to panic and shoot as long as one person gets "boomered" you will be doing your team a service. Many times I've seen novice boomers trying to vomit from rooftops or standing near corners and they went down without doing any good... suicide charges are much more reliable than a vomit attempt.

7) Learn the maps, there are a number of boomer "win spots" where it's almost impossible to avoid the boomer, if a spot doesn't work the first time it probably won't work the 5th time.

8) Consider re-blinding. Ok so you pulled off a successful vomit and lived, hunters and smokers are starting to dismantle the enemy team and the infected are making things difficult for them. Now you can stand back and ambush them at the next turn after they clear up and kill your teammates, or you can just wait about 12 seconds and charge in and suicide into them again. Blinding them again will keep them confused and blind for a combined 25+ seconds giving your teammates plenty of time to finish off their target and wipe the enemy team. Is Bill being wrapped up by the smoker but Zoey is blind firing trying to rescue him? Are 2 or more survivors being disabled by your teammates (smoker/hunter)? Does it just make SENSE to keep your enemy blind for another 10+ seconds? Then run into their blind gunfiring and slap them with right click and they will blow you up 99% of the time and buy your teammates an even bigger window to do their job.

Bonus tips:
1 - You make a distinctive noise and have a large body frame, rely on the "zombie vision" through surfaces to track your targets and don't expose yourself unless you plan on dying. I've seen so many boomers try from "peeking" over roofs and around corners. You have 50hp, one burst from the M16 will kill you before you can react at almost any range.

2 - Smokers... Hunters... you guys are practically useless on your own. Wait for the boomer to make you an opening unless there is a straggler survivor. That doesn't mean you can't run around and distract the survivors to give your boomer an easier opening to run in on.

3 - Smokers... Hunters... target those lovely NON-BLINDED survivors first. They are the ones coming to the rescue, the infected aren't targetting them as much and they aren't blind... they will gun down and free any teammates in a matter of seconds if you don't pounce/smoke their ♥♥♥. Likewise if 2 survivors are blind and 2 aren't... if 2 hunters go for the blinded ones first then you are just going to die a couple seconds later when their non-blind teammates melee you off or just gun you down. Does it make sense for a hunter to jump on a target being attacked by a smoker? No. Does it makes sense for a tank to go for a target being attacked by a hunter? No. Boomer vomit makes a target blind, near deaf, and unable to move because they are surrounded by infected (or will be soon), it's a great form of Crowd control and why would you cancel it out by just jumping on them? You will see your damage increase several fold when going for the non-blinded targets after a boomer assault.

4) Dying near the tank stuns it, which isn't very nice. Tanks spawns are probably one of the few times where it makes sense to come from behind while they are distracted. (courtesy of Faur)

5) Don't forget that your puke arcs. You can extend its range by aiming upwards. You can also use this fact to hit players you can't directly see by puking over objects/obstacles. (courtesy of Ydiss)
Enjoy!

January 20, 2006

Tips for Battlefield 2 : Special Forces

I'm writing this tips for Battlefield 2 : Special Forces for all the knuckle heads out there that are still trying to play Special Forces as though it was regular BF2. Special Forces is not and will never be like regular BF2 and therefore you need to adjust your current way of thinking.

1. Squads! Squads! Squads! Joining a squad is key to success in any Special Forces game. Special Forces is grounded in the work of squads! This is a good tip for regular BF2, but is magnified 10x in the Special Forces expansion.

1a. While in a squad spawn on the squad leader! Most of the time they are setting up for a flag cap and its easier to sneak one person in than 5. Spawn and cap... makes for a great surprise.

1b. A squads success relies heavily on its combination of classes. A good rule of thumb is to always have a medic and two anti tanks. Anti tanks are always needed... a single tank will always win a stand off against a squad that has no AT. Even if you have Spec Ops you need to assume you will not have the jump on a tank. Resupply doesn't hurt, but you also need to have some decent firepower and until EA fixes the supply weapons accuracy they are not more important than a Spec Ops or Assault.

2. They added grapling hooks, zip lines, gas, and flash bangs in for a reason!

2a. Grappling hooks and zip-lines. The Special Forces maps are full of buildings and obstacles that can be bypassed. This makes it harder to defend flags, but in the end it makes the game 100% better because there isn't finite choke points to bottleneck at.

If you see your squad leader tossing up a rope be kind enough to follow. Chances are he is looking to get high to a) clear out any enemies below and b) get high enough for a zip line into the flag.

2b. Zip lines. As with grappling hooks they are keys to Special Forces. I guarantee a good squad will always be zipping into flags and you would be very amazed at how quickly the flags get capped. The key to the zip line is to deploy it and use it right away. If you hesitate at all you're never going to make it down.

2c. Flash bangs and gas. These two items can allow a squad to go into a packed spawn and remove every target before they have a chance to react. Employ with a zip-line and you can zip line into a flag covered by gas.

Flash bangs are useful, but don't get happy with them. They are tricky to throw and usually the effect is not enough to throw someones aim off that much.

Update: 29 Nov, 2009 - Edited post, corrected spelling, and applied labels.

November 28, 2005

How To : The key to the World of Warcraft Auction House

This is a cut'n'paste of my response on Tobold's MMORPG blog about the World of Warcraft auction house. Find the article here.

Controlling the market is key. I have the items I watch and I will buyout and low sellers and undercutters. Then I will repost at my price. I usually can bully out the undercutters because they are usually aren't dedicated AH watchers. They got some cash and that's all they cared about.

My keys to AH riches while still playing the game are as follows...

1. Pick your poison and stick with it. Don't switch back and forth between multiple items unless you really want to waste hours in the AH. If you are a disenchanter... stick with it. If you are a miner... stick with it.

2. Own the market every login. Take the few minutes to buyout every undercutter. This is tough at first because you probably will take losses on some purchases, but you are ensuring your future market.

Don't be afraid the mail people if they constantly undercut you. Don't be mad at them! Explain to them that you would like to purchase at a set price and see if they will stop using the AH. It is MORE profitable for them to sell lower to you because they are NOT losing money on AH fees.

3. Don't flood the market.
You have bank space... SO USE IT! If you find the market empty and a demand for your goods you will have the "stock" in the bank to fill up the market... and usually you can charge a bit extra.

30 minutes a day can make you 100 gold a week easily and I've proven it time and again. Just the question of what to buy/sell... I'll let you figure that part out.